YSC 8K · Setup Guide

From box to
battle-ready in 4 steps.

Everything below runs on Windows 10/11 with the YSC control panel — no programmer, no disassembly, no code. Grab the driver from Downloads first, then follow the steps.

01 WIRING 02 CONNECT 03 CONFIGURE 04 FIRMWARE 05 GAMEPAD 06 FAQ
01 HOW IT CONNECTS
YSC 8K wiring — PC2 on top, MAIN PC and MOUSE on the bottom ports
Fig. 1 — Wiring · top port: PC2 · bottom ports: MAIN PC + MOUSE
02 PROCEDURE
01

WIRINGWire it up

Follow Fig. 1 above. Plug your real mouse / keyboard / controller into the port marked MOUSE, then run a data cable from the port marked MAIN PC to your computer — that's the machine the box passes through to.

The top port marked PC2 is for an optional second PC: remote control over KmNet, or firmware flashing from another machine. Not needed for everyday use.

USE A DATA CABLE. Many USB cables are charge-only — the PC will never see the box through one. If in doubt, use the original cable that came with your phone.
02

DRIVER + LINKInstall & connect

Install the YSC 8K Driver v1.11.0 and open it. Once wired, the PC gains one extra mouse (the box itself) plus one serial COM port — that COM port is how the control panel talks to the box.

  • Open the Serial Connection panel, pick the box's COM port, press Connect
  • Verify: open Monitor, press Start Upload, move your mouse — data should stream in
  • Or open the Docs panel's command tester and send km.version() — the box should answer
03

TUNINGConfigure & save

Each feature lives in its own graphical panel — set values, press Save, done:

  • Macro — 8 trigger-masked slots with randomized pulse timing
  • Jitter — fire-triggered X/Y oscillation for spray patterns
  • Mouse Curve — segmented movement profiles
  • Gamepad Mapping — pad buttons → mouse buttons, mouse motion → stick
  • KmNet — optional: drive the box from a second PC over the network, with self-test
04

FIRMWAREUpdate firmware

Open the 8K V2 Firmware Update panel. Press Refresh, select the side you want (Left first), then either Check Update for online download or Browse a local .bin file. Press Download & Flash / Flash Left — 5 to 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side. The two sides always flash separately.

Firmware flashing — left firmware via the top-left port, right firmware via the top-right port
Fig. 2 — Flashing · left firmware → left port · right firmware → right port

V1: use the Firmware Update panel instead — same flow, single image.

Reading the status lamp: blue solid = normal · yellow blinking = flashing · green solid = done.

NEVER UNPLUG MID-FLASH. No cable pulls, no closing the app, no shutdowns while the progress bar moves — interrupting a flash can brick the unit. Left firmware goes to the left port only, right to the right; mixing them up just means reflashing correctly.
05

OPTIONALGamepad mapping

Plug a PS5 DualSense, Xbox One/Series, XInput or generic HID controller into the MOUSE-side USB port, open the Gamepad Mapping panel and flip the Enable switch — it persists in flash across reboots.

  • Button rules — map any pad button to any mouse button; LT/RT get an analog threshold (default 128 = half press)
  • Augment vs Replace — keep the original pad input alongside the mouse event, or swallow it entirely
  • Motion → stick — set pixels-per-percent sensitivity, target stick, duration and X/Y inversion
  • Export before flashing firmware, import after — configs survive everything else
03 THE UNIT
YSC 8K — angled view, shell and dual-MCU core
Fig. 3 — The unit · textured shell + dual-MCU core · USB-CDC · VID 1A86 / PID FE0C
04 TROUBLESHOOTING

Frequently hit walls.

Refresh finds nothing — the dropdown stays empty
In order: 1) swap the USB cable — a charge-only cable is the most common cause. 2) try a rear motherboard USB port, never a hub or front-panel header. 3) confirm the unit is powered. 4) make sure the cable is in the correct side's port for the side you're flashing. 5) restart the control panel. 6) still nothing — open Device Manager and check under Ports (COM & LPT); a yellow warning mark means a missing driver, contact support.
The flash failed halfway
Don't unplug. Read the log line at the bottom of the panel, then simply press Flash Left / Flash Right again — a retry resolves most failures. Repeatedly failing? Change the cable and the USB port (cable and port quality are the usual suspects), or reseat the cable, restart the app and start over.
The lamp keeps blinking yellow and never turns green
A normal flash takes 5–15 seconds. Past one minute means it stalled — unplug, reconnect, and flash once more.
I flashed left firmware into the right side
Left firmware only belongs on the left port and vice versa, but a mix-up won't brick the unit — it just misbehaves. Move the cable to the correct port and flash the correct image again.
Mapping "does nothing"
First check the Enable switch at the top of the Gamepad Mapping panel — it persists in flash, but if it's off the pad passes through untouched. Then verify with the Monitor panel: press a mapped pad button and watch the mouse-button bits change.
"Update in progress" — but I'm not updating
A previous flash didn't exit cleanly. Restart the control panel, or reboot the PC.